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Komp se uključi čim se utakne u struju, al ne podiže ni bios ni win

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fangorn
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icon Re: Komp se uključi čim se utakne u struju, al ne podiže ni bios ni win10.04.2017. u 14:52 - pre 85 meseci
Kupio danas polovnu, identicnu plocu i sve radi ok.
Inace, kad se ukljuci kabl u struju ne startuje se sam komp (interna dijagnostika ili slicno), pali se normalno na dugme.
Pozdrav.
 
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fangorn
Beograd

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87.116.181.*



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icon Re: Komp se uključi čim se utakne u struju, al ne podiže ni bios ni win15.04.2017. u 13:52 - pre 85 meseci
Znaci ne mogu da verujem!
Sve je radilo ok, instalirao sam sistem, programe, sve super.
Sutradan hocu da ukljucim da instaliram jos nesto, i desi se identicno, samo vrti ventilatore, nema POST-a, nema slike, nista.
Opet se pali cim ga ukljucim u struju, tako da mogu da pretpostavim da napajanje pravi problem i da je sprzilo i ovu plocu.
Napajanje inace radi najnormalnije, tako da nisam imao razloga i njega da menjam, ali eto... Verovatno u nekom trenutku prolupa i sprzi plocu.

Resio sam da probam da ispratim i resim problem.
Posto je cpu hladan kad skinem kuler, nasao sam na netu da je verovatno problem u VRM sekciji na ploci.
@Gilopile je u prethodnom postu uokvirio deo koji se odnosi na napajanje cpu-a.
Proverio sam sve elektrolite ESR metrom i svi su ok, i vizuelno su u odlicnom stanju.
Proverio sam sve MOSFET, ima ih desetak i svi su ok. Proveravao sam ih ovom metodom, naravno prvo sam svaki odlemio sa ploce duvaljkom:

https://www.utm.edu/staff/leeb/mostest.htm

"This testing procedure is for use with a digital multimeter in the diode test-range with a minimum of 3.3 volt over d.u.t. (diode-under-test)

Connect the 'Source' of the MosFet to the meter's negative (-) lead.

1) Hold the MosFet by the case or the tab but don't touch the metal parts of the test probes with any of the other MosFet's terminals until needed.

2) First, touch the meter positive lead onto the MosFet's 'Gate'.

3) Now move the positive probe to the 'Drain'. You should get a 'low' reading. The MosFet's internal capacitance on the gate has now been charged up by the meter and the device is 'turned-on'.

4) With the meter positive still connected to the drain, touch a finger between source and gate (and drain if you like, it does not matter at this stage). The gate will be discharged through your finger and the meter reading should go high, indicating a non-conductive device."


Nasao sam clanak koji objasnjava kako proveriti VRM sekciju:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=600

"Procedure for testing Voltage Regulator Modules (VRMs):
(This assumes that any bad capacitor problems have already been fixed.)

1. Turn off power to the computer.

2. Remove CPU, memory, and all peripherals from motherboard. Disconnect power supply.

3. This step verifies that the board is not damaged, and the VRM is not shorted:
a. Measure resistance from power supply pin (+3.3, +5, +12, -5, -12) to input of VRM. Resistance should be zero (too low to measure).
b. Measure resistance from output of VRMto load supply pin. Resistance should be zero (too low to measure).
c. Measure resistance from input of VRMto ground (should be greater than 1 megohm, usually much greater).
d. Measure resistance from output of VRM to ground (should be greater than 1 megohm, usually much greater).

4. Install CPU, memory, and all peripherals to motherboard. Connect power supply.

5. Turn on power to the computer.

6. This step actually tests the VRM (all voltages taken with respect to circuit ground):
a. Measure voltage at the power supply side of the power connector (+3.3, +5, +12, -5, -12).
b. Measure voltage at the motherboard side of the power connector (+3.3, +5, +12, -5, -12). Anything less than the value obtained in step 6.a indicates a high resistance in the power supply connector.
c. Measure voltage at the input to the VRM (+3.3, +5, +12, -5, -12). Anything less than the value obtained in step 6.b indicates a high resistance in the PC board traces to the VRM, and is probably not repairable, even with a schematic.
d. Measure voltage at the output of the VRM. The value obtained depends on the functions being powered by the VRM, so knowledge of the expected value is required. Anything different than expected indicates a failed VRM (note that output may be higher or lower than expected if bad).

Iz ovog teksta mi nije jasno sta je i gde je tacno "Input of VRM" i "Output of VRM". Ako neko moze da mi pokaze na slici sta tacno trebam da izmerim.
 
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fangorn
Beograd

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icon Re: Komp se uključi čim se utakne u struju, al ne podiže ni bios ni win20.04.2017. u 10:34 - pre 85 meseci
Edit:
Ako neko zeli da se ukljuci...

Vezano za Input and Output of VRM:

"Ouput is past the choke on output capacitors
Input on input capacitors"

"Measure voltage at the input to the VRM (+3.3, +5, +12, -5, -12)"
"Measure voltage at the output of the VRM"

Iz ovoga zakljucujem da je Input prvi elektrolit (na slici obelezen sa 1) a Output zadnji (obelezen sa 2)
Kada izmerim voltazu sa ATX pinova i Input-Output dobijem tacne vrednoti koje i trebaju da budu (+3.3, +5, +12, -5, -12).
Da li po tome mogu da zakljucim da je VRM sekcija u redu?




U delu kod cipseta sam nasao jedan MOSFET koji nije ispravan (oznaka je P1703BDG, obelezeno na slici).
Skinuo sam ispravan sa druge ploce i zamenio, ali se nista nije promenilo.

 
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